So when we planned a trip there this Christmas vacation, I was in a dichotomy of mind. One part was ecstatic, for I was going to soon find out if all I had imagined was true. Jammu & Kashmir has been in the news for all the wrong sort of and heart-wrenching reasons in for the past many years, but if anything, that had heightened my fascination with it. It was one of those 'must-visit destinations before you die' for me for the longest time. There was also the matter of the rich historical references, right from the Harappan times, the Mahabharata, to the Mughal era, which drew me to it.
Another part of me was worried. Worried because I have a low tolerance for cold and an acrophobia bordering on vertigo. A relative stays on the 26th floor and I am fine at her place as long as I do not have to step out onto the balcony or go too near the wide windows. I instinctively claw at whatever I can cling on to. How was I to handle a cold place in winter, with all that snow, and which had landscapes of (literally) Himalayan proportions?
The place was so breathtakingly beautiful, that all my worries flew out of the window, acrophobia be d****d!
I was left with images of a warm, caring and hospitable people. A people hurt by being caught in the cross-fire between two countries (OK, three, if one counts China). A people who just want to be able to live an ordinary life. A people forced to live under extraordinarily hostile conditions. Wherever one looked, there were the signs of a desperate poverty. No big stores, fine bungalows, fancy malls anywhere in Srinagar. We did not come across any beggars except for an old, bent woman outside the Hazaratbal shrine - a surprise observation in India. Instead, there were people desperate to be able do any little work that they could, to make some money. Hawking exquisite handicrafts off a sheet of plastic on freezing hilltops, walking many kilometers through treacherous paths guiding a horse with rider in snow, sleet and slush with the barest of warm protection, pulling toboggans up-slope with overweight tourists...the political situation obviously makes it a difficult and dangerous place for investors to take an interest in, and that reflects on the state's economy. I was somehow ashamed of being a priviledged consumer there.
Jammu was a bit different. For one, economically the conditions seemed better. There was a significant Sikh population. Although the only person we spoke to at length was the driver of our rented car, somehow they came across as more accepting of being a part of India. Though somehow not as warm as the people of Srinagar.
After coming back home, I read of the news of trouble in the very areas we had travelled to around Srinagar. It made me realise that I had indeed been priviledged to have been there, interacted with those people, and felt the warmth of their hospitality, no matter what the ground reality. It also brought home to me the fact of the bubble I had been in, as a tourist in a place that had most of its economy based on the tourism industry - and how vulnerable they really are. It made me sad to think of the suffering an unfortunate history and geography bestows on otherwise good people.
Let me leave you with the pictures. Although the Kashmir valley is at its verdant best in summer, the bareness of winter too, has its own beauty.
The craggy tops of the mighty Himalayas. The almost vertical stratifications are proof of their origins- originally under-sea, and pushed up into the skies by the movements of the earth's crust. Think of the powerful crashing of the subcontinent into mainland Asia.
Ski slopes at Gulmarg, accessed by gondolas, the cable cars.
The line-of-control at the highest point in Gulmarg, beyond which there is no-man's-land. The opposite hill has a Pak outpost just beyond the crest.
The gondolas that take you up there. This is sinister, treacherous, inhospitable territory, with snow so deep a man could sink inside.
Wild berries? No. These are rose hips on the wild rose bushes that run riot along mountain roads. One can only imagine the colours when in full bloom.
Chashme Shahi. Built by Shah Jahan for his beloved first son, Dara Shikoh. Where we could imagine bejewelled harem ladies strolling around at the peak of its Mughal patronage. See the snow-capped mountains in the background. It reminded me of our own Lalbaug, with old old trees of chinar and the willow standing around in majestic leafless winter glory, the thickly foliaged Magnolia grandifloras and evergreens interspersed as the perfect foil.
Pari Mahal. A multi-level terraced garden with a fabulous view of meadows and hills. Built by Dara Shikoh, eldest son of the Mughal emperor Shahjahan, a staunch believer of Sufism for his Sufi tutor, Mulla Shah Badakhshi. He, unfortunately, did not ascend the throne after his father, having being disposed off by his ambitious, fanatical younger brother. History might have been a bit different if this gentler, more tolerant and beauty loving prince had become emperor instead of Aurangzeb.
The iconic Dal lake with its shikaras. The water was close to freezing when we were there. Yesterday I read that the surface now has a thin top layer of ice. Everything was lovely- the unhurried pace of the boat gliding over the almost still, greenish hued water, the feeling of calm, the majestic mountains surrounding the lake. The only problem were the peddlers who kept sidling along trying to make us look at their wares. I completely understand and empathise with the desperation of these hardworking people to do anything productive to earn a living, but we would have liked to be left in peace while on the lake.
On the road in picturesque Sonamarg. This was an absolutely stunning place. All around us were snow-capped mountains, and the road followed a clear, gurgling and ice-cold Sindhu river. What the world knows as the mighty Indus, famed for the setting of the Indus Valley Civilisation more than 4000 years ago. This place is closer to the source, and the river is a frothy, playful child as compared to the vast, sedately flowing one that it undoubtedly is later on its journey to the Arabian sea.
The shopkeeper at the shop where we bought some souvenirs, in his phiran and with his kangri - the wicker basket that holds an urn of burning coals, kept close to protect from the cold. A true symbol of Kashmir, we bought one for ourselves as well. Without the coals, of course!
Pahalgam. The place which doubles up for Switzerland in many of our hindi movies for those who don't realize it isn't. The sights on the trek to this place were lovelier than the place itself, IMO.
This was the surprise item. After making visits to all the usual haunts of tourists, we had one extra day left. Our driver, who was a knowledgeable person, suggested this place called Yusmarg, near the revered Chrar-e-Sharif shrine. It a pretty sunny day when we started out. There were many apple orchards along the way. As we neared the place, it started becoming overcast, and it started to snow! It was so wonderful. Suddenly the bare ground began to be covered by fine white flakes. A was ecstatic, and we kept trying to catch the snowflakes on our tongues. It was an exhilarating experience.
On the last leg of our trip, in Jammu, we first went to a town Akhnoor, which is famous for this fort on the banks of the Chenab, built at a site where excavations have revealed the northernmost known remains of the Harappan civilisation. This place is known locally for the Sohni-Mahiwal legend too.
And a picturesque view from the ramparts of the fort overlooking the Chenab. Though in ruins, some parts are still standing up to the ravages of time. We searched for the ruins of the Harappan civilisation, but there was so much of undergrowth that I'm sure it was under all that. Our country needs to wake up in terms of protecting and showcasing our monuments too. There was no guard on duty here, no entry fee, nothing. Just the above notice proclaiming this is national property. Are they waiting for this pretty well preserved piece of history to fall into further ruins before taking some action?
See the wild undergrowth here. The excavated remains of the Harappan civilisation are probably hidden under all that.
Jammu is near one of the border posts where people can go and visit. A milestone just this side of the border says: Sialkot 11 kms, Lahore 141 kms. A member of our army takes you out through a gate bearing the Indian flag into no-man's-land. At the other end of a half-kilometer, one can see the opposite gate bearing the chand-tara of Pakistan. Halfway, is a barbed wire protected barrier, which is the extent of the distance one can go. See that pipal tree- Ficus religiosa? It stands proudly, half in India, half in Pakistan.
We finished our trip with a pilgrimage to Vaishno Devi. A 12 km trek uphill. I feel proud of the fact that my daughter walked up all the way. No pictures, as we chose not to take anything with us. We aren't allowed anything except our faith and the clothes on us into the shrine. So no pictures, but it is a beautiful place the goddess resides in. It drizzled incessantly, turning to snowing during the last few kilometers. It was certainly an experience of a lifetime.
The place was so breathtakingly beautiful, that all my worries flew out of the window, acrophobia be d****d!
I was left with images of a warm, caring and hospitable people. A people hurt by being caught in the cross-fire between two countries (OK, three, if one counts China). A people who just want to be able to live an ordinary life. A people forced to live under extraordinarily hostile conditions. Wherever one looked, there were the signs of a desperate poverty. No big stores, fine bungalows, fancy malls anywhere in Srinagar. We did not come across any beggars except for an old, bent woman outside the Hazaratbal shrine - a surprise observation in India. Instead, there were people desperate to be able do any little work that they could, to make some money. Hawking exquisite handicrafts off a sheet of plastic on freezing hilltops, walking many kilometers through treacherous paths guiding a horse with rider in snow, sleet and slush with the barest of warm protection, pulling toboggans up-slope with overweight tourists...the political situation obviously makes it a difficult and dangerous place for investors to take an interest in, and that reflects on the state's economy. I was somehow ashamed of being a priviledged consumer there.
Jammu was a bit different. For one, economically the conditions seemed better. There was a significant Sikh population. Although the only person we spoke to at length was the driver of our rented car, somehow they came across as more accepting of being a part of India. Though somehow not as warm as the people of Srinagar.
After coming back home, I read of the news of trouble in the very areas we had travelled to around Srinagar. It made me realise that I had indeed been priviledged to have been there, interacted with those people, and felt the warmth of their hospitality, no matter what the ground reality. It also brought home to me the fact of the bubble I had been in, as a tourist in a place that had most of its economy based on the tourism industry - and how vulnerable they really are. It made me sad to think of the suffering an unfortunate history and geography bestows on otherwise good people.
Let me leave you with the pictures. Although the Kashmir valley is at its verdant best in summer, the bareness of winter too, has its own beauty.
The craggy tops of the mighty Himalayas. The almost vertical stratifications are proof of their origins- originally under-sea, and pushed up into the skies by the movements of the earth's crust. Think of the powerful crashing of the subcontinent into mainland Asia.
The line-of-control at the highest point in Gulmarg, beyond which there is no-man's-land. The opposite hill has a Pak outpost just beyond the crest.
The gondolas that take you up there. This is sinister, treacherous, inhospitable territory, with snow so deep a man could sink inside.
Wild berries? No. These are rose hips on the wild rose bushes that run riot along mountain roads. One can only imagine the colours when in full bloom.
Chashme Shahi. Built by Shah Jahan for his beloved first son, Dara Shikoh. Where we could imagine bejewelled harem ladies strolling around at the peak of its Mughal patronage. See the snow-capped mountains in the background. It reminded me of our own Lalbaug, with old old trees of chinar and the willow standing around in majestic leafless winter glory, the thickly foliaged Magnolia grandifloras and evergreens interspersed as the perfect foil.
Pari Mahal. A multi-level terraced garden with a fabulous view of meadows and hills. Built by Dara Shikoh, eldest son of the Mughal emperor Shahjahan, a staunch believer of Sufism for his Sufi tutor, Mulla Shah Badakhshi. He, unfortunately, did not ascend the throne after his father, having being disposed off by his ambitious, fanatical younger brother. History might have been a bit different if this gentler, more tolerant and beauty loving prince had become emperor instead of Aurangzeb.
The iconic Dal lake with its shikaras. The water was close to freezing when we were there. Yesterday I read that the surface now has a thin top layer of ice. Everything was lovely- the unhurried pace of the boat gliding over the almost still, greenish hued water, the feeling of calm, the majestic mountains surrounding the lake. The only problem were the peddlers who kept sidling along trying to make us look at their wares. I completely understand and empathise with the desperation of these hardworking people to do anything productive to earn a living, but we would have liked to be left in peace while on the lake.
On the road in picturesque Sonamarg. This was an absolutely stunning place. All around us were snow-capped mountains, and the road followed a clear, gurgling and ice-cold Sindhu river. What the world knows as the mighty Indus, famed for the setting of the Indus Valley Civilisation more than 4000 years ago. This place is closer to the source, and the river is a frothy, playful child as compared to the vast, sedately flowing one that it undoubtedly is later on its journey to the Arabian sea.
The shopkeeper at the shop where we bought some souvenirs, in his phiran and with his kangri - the wicker basket that holds an urn of burning coals, kept close to protect from the cold. A true symbol of Kashmir, we bought one for ourselves as well. Without the coals, of course!
Pahalgam. The place which doubles up for Switzerland in many of our hindi movies for those who don't realize it isn't. The sights on the trek to this place were lovelier than the place itself, IMO.
This was the surprise item. After making visits to all the usual haunts of tourists, we had one extra day left. Our driver, who was a knowledgeable person, suggested this place called Yusmarg, near the revered Chrar-e-Sharif shrine. It a pretty sunny day when we started out. There were many apple orchards along the way. As we neared the place, it started becoming overcast, and it started to snow! It was so wonderful. Suddenly the bare ground began to be covered by fine white flakes. A was ecstatic, and we kept trying to catch the snowflakes on our tongues. It was an exhilarating experience.
On the last leg of our trip, in Jammu, we first went to a town Akhnoor, which is famous for this fort on the banks of the Chenab, built at a site where excavations have revealed the northernmost known remains of the Harappan civilisation. This place is known locally for the Sohni-Mahiwal legend too.
And a picturesque view from the ramparts of the fort overlooking the Chenab. Though in ruins, some parts are still standing up to the ravages of time. We searched for the ruins of the Harappan civilisation, but there was so much of undergrowth that I'm sure it was under all that. Our country needs to wake up in terms of protecting and showcasing our monuments too. There was no guard on duty here, no entry fee, nothing. Just the above notice proclaiming this is national property. Are they waiting for this pretty well preserved piece of history to fall into further ruins before taking some action?
See the wild undergrowth here. The excavated remains of the Harappan civilisation are probably hidden under all that.
We finished our trip with a pilgrimage to Vaishno Devi. A 12 km trek uphill. I feel proud of the fact that my daughter walked up all the way. No pictures, as we chose not to take anything with us. We aren't allowed anything except our faith and the clothes on us into the shrine. So no pictures, but it is a beautiful place the goddess resides in. It drizzled incessantly, turning to snowing during the last few kilometers. It was certainly an experience of a lifetime.































